In decor and menu Brasserie Cognac is a replica of Parisian models.
With its globe lights, art deco look and brass railings, Brasserie Cognac successfully mimics a … [+]
The evergreen satisfaction provided by the traditional French bistro has never abated in New York, despite the food media’s neglect of the genre in favor of exotic eateries around town. The distinction between bistros and brasseries blurred years ago, though in Paris the latter still suggest Alsatian origins and specific dishes. Nevertheless, the 19th century brasseries of France have always offered decorous touches widely copied to this day.
Fanciful turn-of-the-century posters and globe lights reference the days of Mouin Rouge.
Brasserie Cognac, with two locations on the east side of Manhattan (there was once a third on the west side), happily borrows the look and feel of Parisian models like Lipp, Le Balzar and La Coupole, in their bright colors, gilt framed mirrors, globe lighting, soft banquettes, Toulouse Lautrec posters and a reasonable noise level (the tables to the rear are the quietest). The knives are Laguiole, there are pepper and salt mills on every table and the menus are of a sensible size. Tablecloths would be an even more authentic touch.
Restaurateurs Vittorio Assaf and Fabio Granato, who run the Serafina chain, break no culinary ground at Brasserie Cognac, which is at it should be. The menu features precisely the kind of dishes you expect and wish for, beginning with cheese-rich, hot gougère pastry puffs ($12)—you get a generous eight of them—which are far superior to the warm but stale-tasting bread slices in a basket. There’s a summery tomato-and goat’s cheese tart tinged with thyme on puff pastry ($10.
Cheese soufflés are making a comeback at Brasserie Cognac.
I’ve been noticing a return to favor of the French cheese soufflé, and Brasserie Cognac’s is near perfect ($28 as an appetizer, $34 as a main course), lavish with Emmenthal, Gruyère and Parmigiano cheeses, poofed up with ethereal lightness by egg whites. There’s also a cheese fondue ($35) for a table to share, a croque monsieur ($22) and a variety of egg dishes. I was surprised by the menu lacking a terrine or pâté; perhaps in the fall?
Quintessential to a brasserie menu is onion soupe gratinée and Brasserie Cognac’s is a good one, though in need of better caramelization of the onions to give it more sweetness and depth ($18).
Wine-rich boeuf bourguignon is a hearty bistro standard at Brasserie Cognac.
Among the main courses are more classics, including a hearty, well-reduced beef bourguignon ($36) good for sharing, made from marinated, braised short ribs cooked with baby carrots, mushrooms and pearl onions, served with buttered mashed potatoes. Steak frites ($39) is made with grass-fed Angus beef, so it comes closer to its pleasantly chewy French cousin, and the frites are as good as you expect.
Pardon the pun, but that old canard, duck à l’orange ($38) has made a comeback at Brasserie Cognac, and the bird was juicy, cut into slices but, except for the slices of sweet confit of oranges, didn’t have much orange flavor, despite its addition of marmalade.
Classic profiteroles filled with vanilla ice cream and drenched in hot chocolate at Brasserie … [+]
Among seafood options are mussels marinière in white wine and cream ($27), pan-seared scallops with an asparagus risotto ($40) and halibut (43), dressed with ponzu sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and baby boy choy, though that night the fish was somewhat overcooked (which certainly doesn’t mean it always is).
You never skip dessert at a brasserie, and all the beloved ones are here, beginning with a perfect île flotante (floating island) bobbing in vanilla-rich crème anglaise. The profiteroles ($14)—big fat ones—are packed with vanilla ice cream over which the waiter ceremoniously pours hot chocolate. Chocolate lovers will also enjoy the “Signature” cake here with an airy almond joconde sponge cake, pistachio and a chocolate mousse. Having delighted in the cheese soufflé, we could hardly resist ordering a chocolate version ($18) that comes piping hot to the table to have crème anglaise poured into its center and given a further bonus of vanilla ice cream.
Brasserie Cognac, for its contemporary liveliness and balance of French traditions, meets the requirements for all who like change in small ways.
BRASSERIE COGNAC
517 Lexington Avenue
212-392-5976
Open for breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri; dinner nightly; brunch Sat. & Sun.
With its globe lights, art deco look and brass railings, Brasserie Cognac successfully mimics a … [+]
The evergreen satisfaction provided by the traditional French bistro has never abated in New York, despite the food media’s neglect of the genre in favor of exotic eateries around town. The distinction between bistros and brasseries blurred years ago, though in Paris the latter still suggest Alsatian origins and specific dishes. Nevertheless, the 19th century brasseries of France have always offered decorous touches widely copied to this day.
Fanciful turn-of-the-century posters and globe lights reference the days of Mouin Rouge.
Brasserie Cognac, with two locations on the east side of Manhattan (there was once a third on the west side), happily borrows the look and feel of Parisian models like Lipp, Le Balzar and La Coupole, in their bright colors, gilt framed mirrors, globe lighting, soft banquettes, Toulouse Lautrec posters and a reasonable noise level (the tables to the rear are the quietest). The knives are Laguiole, there are pepper and salt mills on every table and the menus are of a sensible size. Tablecloths would be an even more authentic touch.
Restaurateurs Vittorio Assaf and Fabio Granato, who run the Serafina chain, break no culinary ground at Brasserie Cognac, which is at it should be. The menu features precisely the kind of dishes you expect and wish for, beginning with cheese-rich, hot gougère pastry puffs ($12)—you get a generous eight of them—which are far superior to the warm but stale-tasting bread slices in a basket. There’s a summery tomato-and goat’s cheese tart tinged with thyme on puff pastry ($10.
Cheese soufflés are making a comeback at Brasserie Cognac.
I’ve been noticing a return to favor of the French cheese soufflé, and Brasserie Cognac’s is near perfect ($28 as an appetizer, $34 as a main course), lavish with Emmenthal, Gruyère and Parmigiano cheeses, poofed up with ethereal lightness by egg whites. There’s also a cheese fondue ($35) for a table to share, a croque monsieur ($22) and a variety of egg dishes. I was surprised by the menu lacking a terrine or pâté; perhaps in the fall?
Quintessential to a brasserie menu is onion soupe gratinée and Brasserie Cognac’s is a good one, though in need of better caramelization of the onions to give it more sweetness and depth ($18).
Wine-rich boeuf bourguignon is a hearty bistro standard at Brasserie Cognac.
Among the main courses are more classics, including a hearty, well-reduced beef bourguignon ($36) good for sharing, made from marinated, braised short ribs cooked with baby carrots, mushrooms and pearl onions, served with buttered mashed potatoes. Steak frites ($39) is made with grass-fed Angus beef, so it comes closer to its pleasantly chewy French cousin, and the frites are as good as you expect.
Pardon the pun, but that old canard, duck à l’orange ($38) has made a comeback at Brasserie Cognac, and the bird was juicy, cut into slices but, except for the slices of sweet confit of oranges, didn’t have much orange flavor, despite its addition of marmalade.
Classic profiteroles filled with vanilla ice cream and drenched in hot chocolate at Brasserie … [+]
Among seafood options are mussels marinière in white wine and cream ($27), pan-seared scallops with an asparagus risotto ($40) and halibut (43), dressed with ponzu sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and baby boy choy, though that night the fish was somewhat overcooked (which certainly doesn’t mean it always is).
You never skip dessert at a brasserie, and all the beloved ones are here, beginning with a perfect île flotante (floating island) bobbing in vanilla-rich crème anglaise. The profiteroles ($14)—big fat ones—are packed with vanilla ice cream over which the waiter ceremoniously pours hot chocolate. Chocolate lovers will also enjoy the “Signature” cake here with an airy almond joconde sponge cake, pistachio and a chocolate mousse. Having delighted in the cheese soufflé, we could hardly resist ordering a chocolate version ($18) that comes piping hot to the table to have crème anglaise poured into its center and given a further bonus of vanilla ice cream.
Brasserie Cognac, for its contemporary liveliness and balance of French traditions, meets the requirements for all who like change in small ways.
BRASSERIE COGNAC
517 Lexington Avenue
212-392-5976
Open for breakfast and lunch Mon.-Fri; dinner nightly; brunch Sat. & Sun.
