Northeast England a haven for history buffs

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By the time I am up to my knees in the North Sea, I have already followed in Harry Potter’s footsteps, learning to fly on a broomstick at Alnwick Castle. I am primed to scour a shore for sea glass gems and keen to experience 2,000 years of British history on an outdoor stage.

Cool, but just a drop in the bucket of travel adventures embraced in northeast England in June.

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Not at the direct invitation of King Charles III, but as the result of his coronation in May, I was one of several international journalists invited by Visit Britain to explore the coastline and surrounding communities of Durham and Northumberland counties.

To celebrate the new king, the country’s coast path was renamed the King Charles III England Coast Path with plans to connect trails along the country’s entire shoreline making its route of about 4,345 kilometres the longest managed coastal path in the world.

Boasting not only the most castles of any county in England, Northumberland, we happily discover, is a treasure trove of coves, scenic views, charming villages and stellar eateries. And for me, mixing with friendly locals, whether on a trail or in a pub, is definitely my cup of tea.

Shortly after landing in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the 18th-century Charlton Hall estate in Chathill beckons with the storied beauty of its English gardens in full bloom as we receive as cordial nods from the geese, sheep and cows roaming the private 60-hectare countryside. Inside, the estate’s Tempus Hotel is equally engaging, designed with nature in mind and in the spirit of Alice in Wonderland.

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Literary fantasy also plays a role at Alnwick Castle where mirth and merriment reign as the resident wizard and witch educate and entertain us during a popular broom-flying lesson. Delightful too, to hear three-year-old James encourage his dad Philip Townsend to take flight.

The castle, used as a set for the Harry Potter films, The Philosopher’s Stone and the Chamber of Secrets, has hosted numerous television and film productions for the last 50 years, including Downton Abbey, The Black Adder, Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves and the Antiques Roadshow.

With more than 950 years of dramatic history tucked in and around its gothic architecture’s sturdy walls, Alnwick is foremost a haven for history buffs. Guided tours offer fascinating links to events such as the Wars of the Roses.

Over the centuries it has been restored and is home to priceless art and artifacts as well as the Percy family for 700 years, with the 12th Duke of Northumberland, Ralph Percy, and family residing there now. The castle and grounds are rife with events throughout the spring-to-fall season including a medieval camp and falconry.

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Glad we don’t have to choose between the deadly Poison Garden and the larger-than-life Lilidorei magical village, when we arrive at Alnwick Garden.

Guide John Knox has our undivided attention, identifying dozens of beautiful plants as toxic, intoxicating and narcotic, especially when paired with tales of their misuse by notorious killers such as Doctor Death, Harold Shipman, found guilty of poisoning 15 patients with opium poppies, and serial killer Graham Young, the Teacup Poisoner who used deadly nightshade on family and others.

Lilidorei includes the world’s biggest play structure, inviting children to grow their imaginations while exploring the creative village, home to nine clans including fairies, pixies, trolls and goblins. Games and performances are in the mix, too, with “Secret Keepers” on hand to help youngsters choose the mysterious clan to which they belong.

Bamburgh Castle’s 3,000-year history, combined with its present-day amenities and sweeping North Sea views from atop a 46-metre basalt crag, make it a show-stopper along the northeast coast. Roaming the 3.6-hectare property, I especially enjoy peering over cannons still at the ready on exterior walls facing the sea. The tour inside the castle, often used as a film and television set, includes restored rooms brimming with treasures.

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Holy Island, visible from Bamburgh, is less than a 30-minute drive, but one that involves precise timing due to non-access during the changing high tide twice a day. The small, serene island is flush with fields of poppies when we arrive. It is home to Lindisfarne Castle and the Lindisfarne Priory, which Irish monks established in 635. The island is still a place of Christian pilgrimage.

Back on the mainland, our coastal hike from the village of Craster to Low Newton provides stellar views of the seascape and the ruins of the massive 14th-century Dunstanburgh Castle. To cap it off, I enjoy a refreshing wade in the North Sea, a delicious Sea Coal wheat beer at the Ship Inn Brewery and the impromptu honour of hosting golden retriever Willow at my outdoor table.

It is intriguing for us to discover sea glass along Seaham Hall Beach, and fascinating to observe Gavin Hardy craft the once waste glass into unique jewelry. Hardy’s family business, Seaham Waves Studio, features a beautiful assortment of bracelets, necklaces and earrings designed by Hardy using sterling silver. Seaham is the U.K.’s most bountiful sea glass beach. Most of the sea-smoothed finds, are due to waste glass being dumped in the water by the Candlish Bottleworks Factory, which operated from 1853-1921.

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Our cocktail class at Durham Distillery is fun, with affable instructors Alex and Hannah guiding us on a refreshing gin and vodka cocktail journey, culminating in our own creations. The distillery’s locally sourced ingredients, such as pink peppercorn, elevated our appreciation for a foraging tour of Dalton Moor Farm and hiking the Durham Heritage Coast, flush with plants and wildflowers dating back to pre-medieval times.

Enticed by Durham Cathedral’s towering presence, we are game to climb the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s 325 stone spiral steps to take in stellar views of Durham City and surrounding countryside. Built in 1093, the active cathedral is home to historical religious treasures.

Kynren, a 90-minute “breathless dash through 2,000 years of British history” performed by a cast of hundreds on a natural outdoor stage, far exceeds my great expectations. Knights on horseback, flocks of geese and sheep, royalty, villagers, clergy, heroes and foes provide awesome non-stop historical entertainment. Fireworks too, at Bishop Auckland, Durham County. This year’s final weekly performance is Sept. 9.

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Suffice to say, we travellers developed wholesome appetites along the way which, I’m happy to share, were more than sated at a variety of fabulous eateries from pubs to hotels to a tree house and cellar in a 13th century building.

Suggestions to whet your appetite:

For tourism information, see visitbritain.ca

Article content

Article content

By the time I am up to my knees in the North Sea, I have already followed in Harry Potter’s footsteps, learning to fly on a broomstick at Alnwick Castle. I am primed to scour a shore for sea glass gems and keen to experience 2,000 years of British history on an outdoor stage.

Cool, but just a drop in the bucket of travel adventures embraced in northeast England in June.

Article content

Article content

Not at the direct invitation of King Charles III, but as the result of his coronation in May, I was one of several international journalists invited by Visit Britain to explore the coastline and surrounding communities of Durham and Northumberland counties.

To celebrate the new king, the country’s coast path was renamed the King Charles III England Coast Path with plans to connect trails along the country’s entire shoreline making its route of about 4,345 kilometres the longest managed coastal path in the world.

Boasting not only the most castles of any county in England, Northumberland, we happily discover, is a treasure trove of coves, scenic views, charming villages and stellar eateries. And for me, mixing with friendly locals, whether on a trail or in a pub, is definitely my cup of tea.

Shortly after landing in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the 18th-century Charlton Hall estate in Chathill beckons with the storied beauty of its English gardens in full bloom as we receive as cordial nods from the geese, sheep and cows roaming the private 60-hectare countryside. Inside, the estate’s Tempus Hotel is equally engaging, designed with nature in mind and in the spirit of Alice in Wonderland.

Article content

Literary fantasy also plays a role at Alnwick Castle where mirth and merriment reign as the resident wizard and witch educate and entertain us during a popular broom-flying lesson. Delightful too, to hear three-year-old James encourage his dad Philip Townsend to take flight.

The castle, used as a set for the Harry Potter films, The Philosopher’s Stone and the Chamber of Secrets, has hosted numerous television and film productions for the last 50 years, including Downton Abbey, The Black Adder, Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves and the Antiques Roadshow.

With more than 950 years of dramatic history tucked in and around its gothic architecture’s sturdy walls, Alnwick is foremost a haven for history buffs. Guided tours offer fascinating links to events such as the Wars of the Roses.

Over the centuries it has been restored and is home to priceless art and artifacts as well as the Percy family for 700 years, with the 12th Duke of Northumberland, Ralph Percy, and family residing there now. The castle and grounds are rife with events throughout the spring-to-fall season including a medieval camp and falconry.

Article content

Glad we don’t have to choose between the deadly Poison Garden and the larger-than-life Lilidorei magical village, when we arrive at Alnwick Garden.

Guide John Knox has our undivided attention, identifying dozens of beautiful plants as toxic, intoxicating and narcotic, especially when paired with tales of their misuse by notorious killers such as Doctor Death, Harold Shipman, found guilty of poisoning 15 patients with opium poppies, and serial killer Graham Young, the Teacup Poisoner who used deadly nightshade on family and others.

Lilidorei includes the world’s biggest play structure, inviting children to grow their imaginations while exploring the creative village, home to nine clans including fairies, pixies, trolls and goblins. Games and performances are in the mix, too, with “Secret Keepers” on hand to help youngsters choose the mysterious clan to which they belong.

Bamburgh Castle’s 3,000-year history, combined with its present-day amenities and sweeping North Sea views from atop a 46-metre basalt crag, make it a show-stopper along the northeast coast. Roaming the 3.6-hectare property, I especially enjoy peering over cannons still at the ready on exterior walls facing the sea. The tour inside the castle, often used as a film and television set, includes restored rooms brimming with treasures.

Article content

Holy Island, visible from Bamburgh, is less than a 30-minute drive, but one that involves precise timing due to non-access during the changing high tide twice a day. The small, serene island is flush with fields of poppies when we arrive. It is home to Lindisfarne Castle and the Lindisfarne Priory, which Irish monks established in 635. The island is still a place of Christian pilgrimage.

Back on the mainland, our coastal hike from the village of Craster to Low Newton provides stellar views of the seascape and the ruins of the massive 14th-century Dunstanburgh Castle. To cap it off, I enjoy a refreshing wade in the North Sea, a delicious Sea Coal wheat beer at the Ship Inn Brewery and the impromptu honour of hosting golden retriever Willow at my outdoor table.

It is intriguing for us to discover sea glass along Seaham Hall Beach, and fascinating to observe Gavin Hardy craft the once waste glass into unique jewelry. Hardy’s family business, Seaham Waves Studio, features a beautiful assortment of bracelets, necklaces and earrings designed by Hardy using sterling silver. Seaham is the U.K.’s most bountiful sea glass beach. Most of the sea-smoothed finds, are due to waste glass being dumped in the water by the Candlish Bottleworks Factory, which operated from 1853-1921.

Article content

Our cocktail class at Durham Distillery is fun, with affable instructors Alex and Hannah guiding us on a refreshing gin and vodka cocktail journey, culminating in our own creations. The distillery’s locally sourced ingredients, such as pink peppercorn, elevated our appreciation for a foraging tour of Dalton Moor Farm and hiking the Durham Heritage Coast, flush with plants and wildflowers dating back to pre-medieval times.

Enticed by Durham Cathedral’s towering presence, we are game to climb the UNESCO World Heritage Site’s 325 stone spiral steps to take in stellar views of Durham City and surrounding countryside. Built in 1093, the active cathedral is home to historical religious treasures.

Kynren, a 90-minute “breathless dash through 2,000 years of British history” performed by a cast of hundreds on a natural outdoor stage, far exceeds my great expectations. Knights on horseback, flocks of geese and sheep, royalty, villagers, clergy, heroes and foes provide awesome non-stop historical entertainment. Fireworks too, at Bishop Auckland, Durham County. This year’s final weekly performance is Sept. 9.

Article content

Suffice to say, we travellers developed wholesome appetites along the way which, I’m happy to share, were more than sated at a variety of fabulous eateries from pubs to hotels to a tree house and cellar in a 13th century building.

Suggestions to whet your appetite:

For tourism information, see visitbritain.ca

Article content